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Now Brewing

the baghdadi jewish dish that was created in mumbai and kolkata

the taste was sour and sweet, a smooth, compelling aroma filled my mouth and nose, the texture was silky, a depth in it. i’d never tasted a chicken dish like this before. i’d never tasted anything like this before. the first time i had chicken chitannee, i certainly didn’t think of aurangzeb, or the british, or dawud pasha, the last mamluk ruler of baghdad. the dense gravy, mixed with fluffy white gobindobhog rice wouldn’t brook any thinking. the tender yet…

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Festive Specials

how did the salmon get into the shorshe diye machher jhaal

if you’re bengali, you’ve probably grown up eating shorshe diye machher jhaal, or mustard fish curry. it can be made with many kinds of fish, almost any kind: large bhetki (bekti), rui, katla, chitol; smaller tangra, koi, parshe, gurjaoli; of course, prawns, even pomfret. clearly, we love mustard. but it’s made with special enthusiasm in the rainy season, the monsoon months, when the ilish or hilsa fish comes to the mouth of the river, the estuary or mohona, and its…

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an offensive note in kuch rang pyaar ke aise bhi

don’t know about you, but i am beginning to find kuch rang pyaar ke downright offensive. there are many things that don’t appeal but one thing is really getting to me. this crass divide between people who do and don’t eat meat is grotesque and sickening in tone. i am bengali and i eat fish, yeah. my own mami is a vegetarian from up, my mausa was a brahmin from up… never have i ever heard of such nonsense and…

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